Topaz Gigapixel now built into Lightroom
A game-changer, or just another ho-hum upgrade?
6238 words; 19 photographs; 33-minute read
In a surprising move, rival companies competing for your post-processing dollars have joined forces and handed Adobe users what could be a significant upgrade, all at little or no extra cost. Lightroom CC now includes Generative Upscaling at 2x and 4x using Topaz Gigapixel right in the app. This may not mean much for some, especially if you already have Topaz products, but if the version of Gigapixel included in Lightroom works as predicted, it might just be a game-changer for many who have opted not to buy Topaz.
NOTE: From what I understand, Topaz Denoise AI and Sharpen AI have been added to Photoshop. However, in this article, I will exclusively discuss Generative Upscaling in Lightroom. Just over a year ago, I chose to drop Photoshop from my Adobe Plan. Simply put, after three decades of PS use, I was finding it less and less helpful for editing photographs, given Lightroom’s more intuitive and photograph-oriented interface and adjustments. NOTE: That decision may be worth re-visiting now that Topaz Denoise and Sharpen have been added to Photoshop, as adding PS back into to my Adobe Plan (an additional $12/mo) is a lot less expensive than subscribing to an over-priced Topaz Photo at $17/mo.
Backgrounder
Topaz Gigapixel is the industry leader for upscaling images while maintaining amazing detail. It’s available as an app or plugin from Topaz for USD $149/year. Users of Topaz Photo or the older Topaz Photo AI can also access upscaling. So, for those users, many of which also use Lightroom, the addition of Gigapixel to Lightroom is a non-starter. However, for Lightroom users that do not have Topaz, it may be a significant upgrade, especially as it works without the app and does not require a trip out to Topaz and back again. It’s important to note that Generative Upscaling using Gigapixel has only been added to Lightroom CC, not Lightroom Classic.

Minolta Dimage 7i at 16mm (62mm efov) • ƒ4 @ 1/750 • ISO 100 • original .MRW raw file processed in Lightroom and upscaled in Photoshop
Beginning life in 2003 as a 5 MP 1920×2560 pixel file, this portrait can be printed directly as a 5×7″ at 300ppi. On my wall at home, I have a 16×20″ that looks great, but it was the product of very laborious upscaling in Photoshop years ago. With Generative Upscaling in Lightroom, I can work right from the original raw file and create 2x and 4x upscales..
Limitations
Generative Upscaling within Lightroom has five limitations that should be understood at the outset:
- Upscaling of any image will also magnify any shortcomings such as focus accuracy, movement, and poor lens optics such as chromatic aberrations. So you need to begin with near-perfect images.
- Upscaling is limited to 2x or 4x, nothing in-between and nothing larger.
- Upscaling limits resolution to 65,000 pixels on the long side of the upscaled image. BTW, that’s a print size of 216″ or 18 feet at 300ppi, so, hardly a serious limitation!
- Upscaling requires the use of Adobe Generative Credits. Each Adobe Lr account is granted 250 credits each month, and are not cumulative, However, upscaling of a 20.4 MP ORF file uses 20 credits, providing up to 12 upscales a month. To me, this isn’t very limiting considering how few upscales I’m ever in need of. Besides if the need arises, additional credits can be purchased; 2,000 credits for one month for $12.99.
- Generative Upscaling is only available in Lightroom CC, the online version that stores files in the Adobe Cloud—not Lightroom Classic. Initially, this seems shocking as LrC is the ‘professional’ version of Lr. However, it makes sense as LrC is not cloud-based. For Generative Upscaling from LrC, files would need to be uploaded to the cloud, scaled, then downloaded again. With cloud-based Lr CC, everything is already in the Adobe Cloud, so upscaling is straightforward.
On the Adobe Generative Upscale with Topaz Gigapixel FAQ page, they state, “At this time, there are no plans to bring Topaz Gigapixel to Lightroom Classic. In Lightroom Classic this year, we are focused on expanding workflows with AI Culling and Firefly integrations for ideation, as well as performance and other enhancements.”
Having gravitated to Lr cloud-based editing over the past few years, not having it in LrC is of little consequence to me. I still use LrC for printing and for adding borders and text using the very helpful plugin LR/Mogrify 2, but neither is part of my typical editing workflow.
What is really of interest to me, as a MFT user, is this:
Can the Gigapixel technology now built into Lightroom extend the value of my MFT sensor, by putting high pixel resolution files within reach with the smaller, lighter innovative gear I so enjoy using? If so, it could be the game-changer many have been looking for.

OM-1 w/M.Zuiko 100-400mm at 400mm (800 efov) • ƒ8 @ 1/800 • ISO 1600 • Lightroom
It is critical for wildlife photographers to keep their distance from active nests to avoid disruption. For me, this meant having to crop this file from 3888×5184 to 2250×3000. Though this is still large enough for an exceptional 8×10″ print at 300ppi, with Generative Upscaling, a 16×20″ print is now possible.
MFT: the Sweet Spot
I’ve been arguing for years that 20.4 MP is enough, and that MFT is the sweet spot in modern photography—and it still is. My OM-1 meets or exceeds dynamic range for outdoor landscapes and high ISO performance for dim situations. In addition my OM-1 has truly innovate modes such as Live ND, Live Composite, Focus Stacking, and 50fps raw output with AF and AE, built in to a system with industry-leading optics, IBIS and weather-proofness. No other camera on the market today can boast this. It’s the real deal, which some feel is limited only by sensor size.
Except, even 20.4 MP isn’t limiting. At 3888×5184 pixels, the sensor is plenty large enough for 99% of all end-uses, including online sharing, on-screen viewing, fine prints up to 13×19” at 300ppi (even 16x20s are no sweat), and canvases up to 20×28”.

OM-1 w/12-100 at 57mm (114mm efov) • ƒ5.6 @ 1/50 • ISO 800 • Lightroom
A lusciously detailed image at 3888x5184px, ideal for a 16×20. But, if something larger is needed, Generative Upscale would be helpful.
So, why do I need Generative Upscale?
Even if MFT naysayers can see past the rhetoric around DR and high ISO performance, they always come around to two limitations based on sensor size:
- when significant cropping is involved; and
- when print sizes larger than 16×20” are needed.
In other words, not very often. But first, a word on pixel-peeping.

OM-1 w/ M.Zuiko 8-25mm/4 PRO at 10mm (20mm efov) • ƒ8 @ 1/500 • ISO 200 • Lightroom
An ideal candidate for Gigapixel, but I also shot this using HHHR for a 50 MP file and Tripod HR producing an 80 MP file. How well does Generative Upscaling compare to high-res pixel-shift technology?
Pixel-peeping
Let me state up front that I am not a pixel peeper. The blogosphere earns their clicks from pixel-peeping minute differences between this sensor and that sensor, as well as the various apps to denoise and sharpen. To me, a photograph speaks to viewers based on its emotional appeal, especially when it comes to prints on a wall. Other than pedantic pixel-peeping photographers, no one puts their nose to a print (or to a computer screen) to check details.
That being said, there is one caveat: I pixel-peep when sharpening files , usually at 200%, thus, many of the comparison images below are at 200%. For larger print sizes, I use 100% because with larger prints, viewers stand further away. With 4x upscales, I’ve chosen to compare them at 50%, to show how the details compare to the same view of the original at 200%.
You see, that’s where the pedantic pixel-peepers lose perspective. They present their findings as if everyone is staring at a computer screen showing one tiny section of a photograph. Surprise! People don’t do this. Viewers stand where they can see the whole photograph. They may take a step closer to see details in one specific portion, but they don’t leave nose prints on the glass like pedantic pixel-peepers do.
Note: Each of the photographs presented here have been re-sized to 1600 pixels on the long side. They may be viewed larger by clicking/tapping on them. The comparison images are larger, so I have linked them to the original image file. Right-click and select “Open in new tab” to see a full 100% view.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 400mmm (800mm efov) • ƒ8 @ 1/640 • ISO 6400 • Lightroom
When you can’t get physically closer, and you’ve maxed out your zoom, the only thing to do is crop. The original 5184×3888 pixel frame is cropped to 3770×2827 pixels—still large enough for a 9×12″ print at 300ppi. But, what if I need something larger? NOTE: The high ISO of 6400 posed no limitation to the colour fidelity or feather detail of this photograph.
Cropping
Cropping shrinks the pixel resolution of any image. The need for cropping is often a sign of sloppy or lazy technique. Rather than moving closer or putting more effort into seeing and composing, cropping has become an unspoken default, especially, I note, amongst users of large resolution cameras, for whom extra pixels are a luxury they can afford to throw away. I can’t count the number of times I’ve heard comments like, “Oh, I can crop it in post”, even in situations that shouldn’t require cropping.
The Feathers and Fur Crowd
However, for many of us, cropping has become a necessary evil of photographing wildlife. Dedicated wildlife photographers spend a lifetime honing their field craft to get closer either through patience, stealth or by using hides. But for those of us who are opportunists, we haven’t developed those skills to the same degree. Furthermore our technique is not practiced enough for tight zooming with fast-moving wildlife. Either way, we have no choice but to crop.
This is where Topaz Gigapixel comes in. But there’s a catch: upscaling magnifies every weakness in the system including focus and optics. Focus is photographer-controlled, but not optics.

OM-1 w/M. Zuiko 100-400mm at 218mm (436mm efov) • ƒ8 @ 1/2500 • ISO 3200 • Lightroom
Olympus optics have long been regarded as some of the sharpest available in photography. With OM Systems, that industry-leading lens quality continues. Combined with the 2x crop factor and industry-leading weather proofing and stabilization, OM gear is now well-regarded amongst professional wildlife photographers. I know my keeper rate has increased 5x to 10x from when I used my heavier, slower 35mm Nikon.
Red-breasted Nuthatch
Here is a typical use-case. In an ideal world, I would have zoomed in more to fill the frame with this nuthatch. However, being skittish and somewhat unpredictable, I wanted enough space around the bird to accommodate its sudden movements. As a result, I used 218mm instead of 300mm or more. The original 3888 x 3888px square file was cropped to 2871x2871px, still large enough for online and on-screen sharing, and for excellent 9×9″ prints at 300ppi. But what if I want a larger print? Enter Gigapixel.
Can Generative Upscaling using Gigapixel in Lightroom maintain the detail required of fine feathers?

One of the artefacts I look for in upscaling is what I call “grooming” artefacts. In the past, AI has had the bad habit of making feather and fur details of wildlife appear combed or groomed, like a pet might be. But this is nature—animals don’t go to spas or have a fastidious owner. Feather and fur must appear natural to those of us who know how natural feathers and fur should appear. In this case, Generative Upscale has passed, with flying colours.
But one could ask, why not use the easiest method of all — upscale upon Export. From within Lightroom, users can choose Share > Custom Settings, set Dimensions to Custom, then enter a value twice that of the Long Side. You can see the result below. Surprisingly, the quality of the upscale is very good to almost excellent. The advantage of Gigapixel comes in the smoother background and the smoother, cleaner feather details. That being said, Lr is no slouch even with a simple Export to a larger file size.

How big can we go?

Red Fox
This photograph of a red fox is another ideal use-case for Gigapixel in Lightroom.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 100mm (200mm efov) • ƒ8 @ 1/2500 • ISO 800 • Lightroom
This was a grab shot if ever there was one. Shot from the car window, I barely had time to point and compose with no time to zoom before the fox was gone. The final image is a 2281x1711px crop. Amazingly, and this is a credit to the quality of the OM System sensor, at ISO 800, the fur detail is excellent and holds up very well upon close scrutiny.
However, the cropped file is only large enough for a 5×7 at 300ppi — what about something larger?

But is 4462x3422px large enough? It would make an excellent fine print of 11×14″ at 300ppi. What about an over-the-couch print or canvas?

Test 1, enlarging cropped files for larger prints, is declared a success. Now to tackle the other perceived shortcoming — creating prints larger than 16x20s . . .
The test of time
Before we tackle modern files, it’s helpful to look at old files made with digital cameras that had less-than-ideal file sizes. My first digital camera was the fantastic Minolta Dimage 7i. While the file size was only 5 MP (1920×2560 pixels), the quality of the files was and still is excellent. My portrait of Nesaro stands the test of time as now, 23 years later, it enlarges with exceptionally fine detail, thanks to Generative Upscaling in Lightroom.
However, this is also a good time to re-iterate the age-old adage of GIGO: Garbage-In-Garbage-Out. High quality upscales must start from high quality files.

Straight 20.4 MP enlarged
Grand vistas and detailed still-life photographs are an ideal candidate for upscaling for large, over-the-couch prints and canvases. How well will Generative Upscale handle this photograph, one with lots of fine detail?

OM-1 w/ 12-100mm at 100mm • ƒ5.6 @ 1/125 • ISO 200 • Lightroom
It’s important to remember that Generative Upscaling cannot add detail to a file. However, when an image begins with incredibly sharp fine details, Gigapixel preserves that detail and enhances it with subtle sharpening.

Extending the value of OM System Innovations
Where Generative Upscale might be ideal is to extend the value of some of the innovative features built into OM System cameras, specifically Live ND, Focus Stacking, and Live Composite. It might even replace the need for HHHR and/or Tripod HR. Let’s see . . .
Live ND: Look Ma! No Tripod!
One of the fundamental features of OM cameras over all other cameras on the market is having a neutral density filter mode, called Live ND, as one of the computational photography modes. My OM-1 (v1) emulates ND filters of 2x up to 64x. ND 2 halves the light, so makes a difference of –1 EV; ND 4 is ¼ the light, which is –2 EV. Therefore ND 64 is the same as –6 stops. The OM-1 v2 has up to ND 128 as well as Graduated ND — even better!.
Why is this so revolutionary? For two reasons: (1) I no longer need to carry neutral density filters; and (2) a tripod is not longer necessary due to the excellent stabilisation of OM System bodies and lenses.
For photography of moving water, a frequent subject in landscapes, Live ND is, in itself, a game-changer especially because the result is a raw file. Its only drawback is that it cannot be combined with Handheld High Res mode (HHHR), to produce images of 50 MP or Tripod HR for 80 MP files. Enter Generative Upscale . . .

OM-1 w/ M.Zuiko 12-100mm PRO at 14mm (28mm efov) • ƒ13 @ ¼ • ISO 200 • Live ND 16 • Lightroom
This is an image that deserves to be huge. Note: This was made at ¼-second, handheld, and every detail is tack sharp, a necessary requirement for upscaling as every flaw will also be magnified.
Live ND makes this kind of photography straightforward. Gigapixel upscales it for the wall. A 16×20″ fine print of the scene shown above would be great, but it really deserves something much larger. Imagine a 30×40″ with the same detail?

At 9798 x 7348px, the resulting DNG file from a 2x upscale, is large enough for a 24×32″ fine print at 300ppi and will easily make a canvas of 30×40″. Upscaling to 4x provides a print size of 48″x64″.

But what about that 30×40″ print? How well do Gigapixel files hold up to downsizing?

The importance of beginning with a high quality image can’t be overemphasized. Micro-contrast plays a huge role in this as well as lens resolution. Both are optimized in Olympus / OM System lenses, even at 20.4 MP, so upscaling from there is a dream. No longer is larger, heavier 35mm sensor gear needed for large prints of grand scenes.
Focus Stacking & Bracketing

OM-1 w/ M.Zuiko ED 60mm Macro • ƒ4 @ 1/60 • ISO 1600 • 12-image in-camera focus stack • Topaz Photo + Lightroom
Focus Stacking and Bracketing have become essential techniques for many macro and landscape photographers. With both being built into OM cameras, they has become even easier to use. The only limiting factor is that the in-camera Focus Stacking results in a JPEG, however, you also have the original raw files that can be stacked using apps like Affinity Photo and Photoshop. Having it in-camera makes life easier. I know Tom Stirr swears by the quality of in-camera stacks and the resulting JPEGs.
When photographing landscapes with great depth-of-field, photographers no longer need small apertures of ƒ16 or 22, which softens details due to diffraction. Shooting a series of frames at ƒ4 at different focus distances, then having them automatically combined in-camera provides unlimited depth-of-field. However, the maximum file size is limited by the 20.4 MP sensor. Enter Generative Upscaling for that over-the-couch, wall-consuming mega-print or canvas.
For macro photographers, it’s unusual to want a larger print of a smaller creature, but even that is now possible, within Lightroom.
I featured this image in The New Topaz Photo: How well does it compare to Lightroom and DxO?. Let’s have another look at upsizing with Gigapixel in Lightroom.
OM System cameras have become the premier choice of serious macro photographers. For one, the optics in the 60mm and 90mm Macro lenses are unparalleled. Secondly, the MFT sensor provides users with greater magnifications more easily than with 35mm sensor cameras and macro lenses.
For better or worse, the output from File Stacking is a JPEG. Fortunately, Gigapixel in Lightroom works on JPEGs as well as raw files, PNGs, and TIFFs. The results from JPEGs actually improves the image. Below is a comparison of a Gigapixel 2x upscale and the original Lightroom file, optimised in Topaz Photo.

Capturing Sky Trails using Live Composite
For photographers trying to capture star trails, Live Composite has been a game-changer. No longer do you need to captures tens or hundreds of files then composite them on the computer. Olympus and OM System have made it as easy as this:
- Set your camera up on a tripod.
- Set the focus using Starry Sky AF.
- Set Live Composite to capture and build frames 1-minute at at time.
- On the rear LCD, watch the progression of each frame being added for minutes to hours.
- Stop the process when you have what you want.
- Upload and process the raw file.
But how do those files look when upscaled? I was especially worried about pixelation of the star trails as they are moving in an arc. Problem solved.

OM-1 w/ Panasonic-Leica 9mm/1.7 • ƒ2 @ 40x60sec exposures using Live Composite • ISO 400 • Lightroom

HHHR and Tripod HR

OM-1 w/12-100mm at 31mm (62mm efov) • ƒ5.6 @ 2sec • ISO 200 • Lightroom
Similar to the feather and fur shown previously, the fine detail of the moss is exquisite and must be maintained.
As mentioned previously, one of the features of OM System bodies is they offer 50 MP capture with Handheld High Res and 80 MP files with Tripod High Res. However, the disadvantage of using these technologies is that any movement, from wind or of the subject shows up as either blurs or chatters, making the image unusable. Furthermore, High Res cannot be used with other computational modes such as Live ND, Live Capture and Focus Stacking.
Over the years, I’ve tried a few methods of upscaling and describe them in Maximizing Image Quality: In-Camera Pixel Shift or Software Upscaling? with direct comparisons of my testing results.
The question I want answered is this: Can Lightroom’s Generative Upscale be considered a replacement for HHHR and Tripod HR? Let’s find out.
I shoot HHHR fairly regularly, along side regular 20.4 MP captures, so I have a number of files that can be used as comparison. However, since moving to OM System, I have made little use of my tripod except for astrophotography. This speaks to the efficiency of the OM stabilization.
Here is one, made using Tripod HR to compare.

The weakness of shooting with pixel-shift technology usually shows up in the chattering of moving water, but this time it shows in the very slight movement of the ferns, which are not as crisp as they are in the single, 20.4 MP capture.
Now, let’s see how Tripod HR stacks up to Generative Upscale of the 20.4 MP file in Lightroom.

Not yet convinced? Here is the same comparison at 200%:

To me, having Topaz Gigapixel incorporated into Lightroom makes both HHHR and Tripod HR redundant as I can now shoot once, with no pixel-shift and no problems associated with movement, and still get amazingly sharp 80 MP files for large prints. Yes, a game-changer.
However, the only reason this works so well is that the lenses being used have the resolving power to capture the detail needed on sensors with a pixel size measured in microns, 3.32 µm to be exact (according to Digital Camera Database) or about 1/20th the width of a human hair. Bottom Line: If Olympus / OM System had crappy lenses, their poor resolving power would only be magnified by Generative Upscaling and I wouldn’t be showing the kind of detail extracted above.

OM-1 w/12-100 at 44mm (88mm efov) • ƒ8 @ ⅛ • ISO 200 • Lightroom
So what?
If you are using 35mm sensor gear, you might be asking, “So, what’s the big deal?”
It’s all about having options. With innovations such as Live ND, Focus Stacking and Live Composite, photographers are drawn to OM System cameras, but may be scared off by the smaller sensor. Clearly, a small sensor is no longer a limitation.
Furthermore, as people travel more and as people age, they want portability AND high image quality. Having a smaller package of lighter weight professional gear with industry-leading specs is the answer. My kit weighs in at less than 5kg and includes an OM-1, M.Zuiko 8-25mm/4 PRO, 12-100mm/4 PRO, and 100-400mm/5-6.3 zooms, a 60mm/2.8 Macro and a Panasonic-Leica 9mm/1.7. All this fits into a small LowePro 250AW sling bag that counts as my personal bag when flying. To be clear, that’s the equivalent of 16mm to 800mm in 35mm sensor terms, all in a 5kg package.
Furthermore, the innovations in my OM System gear allow me to make photographs that I cannot make with any 35mm sensor camera. And now I have the added option of significantly increasing the final size of my finished images when needed. Why carry around heavier gear all the time when most images are only ever seen online or on-screen? When I need a print larger than 16×20 or I need to increase the size of a cropped image, I now have Generative Upscale.
This is why incorporating Topaz Gigapixel into Lightroom is a game-changer, at least for me.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 400mm (800mm efov) • ƒ6.3 @ 1/800 • ISO 3200 • Lightroom
But a subscription?
There has been a lot of online discussion regarding the cost of Lightroom. The full-price cost of my 1 TB Lightroom subscription (the one without Photoshop), is CAD $150/year. To put that cost into perspective, that’s less than the price of one decent filter or about the cost of shooting and processing 5 rolls of 36 exposures, back in the day. So, pardon me for shaking my head when photographers complain about the Adobe subscription costs.
Surprisingly, Topaz Photo is actually MORE expensive than Lightroom, yet is severely limited in its processing features. It denoises and sharpens brilliantly, and has up-scaling built in, but it has nothing of the exposure, colour correction, black-and-white processing, extremely capable masking, and other finessing options of Lightroom.
BTW, Gigapixel itself is the same cost as a Lightroom subscription, $150/year, and now the bulk of it is built into Lightroom. Another win-win.
The future of 35mm
Here’s a bold statement: Lightroom has just driven another nail in the coffin of 35mm. It’s not like Gigapixel hasn’t been available before, it’s just that now, it is in the hands of far more users without an additional subscription.
There will always be professional photographers whose job dictates the use of 35mm sensor gear. And, there will always be the non-professionals whose ego tells them they need 35mm sensor gear.
However, from a technical perspective we are in a new era of photography, similar to 100 years ago when the “miniature” Leica was first introduced. It was poo-pooed by the professionals as being too small to get decent image quality. To a large degree, they were correct. 35mm images could not compete with medium and large format image quality, especially in large sizes. As film quality improved and grain became less and less, the portability of 35mm began to outweigh its inferior image quality, and it was adopted more and more.
Lenses also improved and opened up new opportunities, especially with longer, telephoto lenses for wildlife photography. Today, the difference in image quality between 35mm sensor gear and MFT is much smaller than it ever was between medium format and 35mm, and the parallels still stand: high quality photographs in a smaller package.

OM-1 w/12-100mm at 12mm (24mm efov) • ƒ10 @ ⅛ sec • ISO 200 • Live ND • Lightroom
Shot handheld. Using Generative Upscaling in Lightroom, this 20.4 MP file can now be an 80 MP file, ready for a 60″ print or canvas.
Fast forward 100 years and we have a similar perfect storm with MFT: smaller, lighter, more portable gear (just like Leica back then) and very high image quality, IQ that now rivals 35mm sensor cameras. There are niche uses of 35mm sensors where MFT under-performs, but the same is true of medium format. Each has its use. Now that image size is no longer a limiting factor and has joined the mythologies of high ISO noise and limited dynamic range, there is less and less of an attraction to gear that is heavier and less portable. What’s not to like?
The bottom line is, if you want a professional system that is still portable, for travel, street, landscape, macro, event/concert, wildlife and sports photography, MFT now fits the bill. And with Generative Upscaling now built into Lightroom, you can have your cake and blow it up to whatever size you need.
Trade-offs
It’s important to point out that, as with everything in photography, there are trade-offs. After all, you can’t have a smaller aperture without a slower shutter speed or higher ISO—right? But none of the trade-offs involve OM System gear — it’s an AI thing.
Generative AI
The first trade-off is that Generative Upscaling uses AI. I see GenAI as a disadvantage because as a photographer of nature, my goal is to maintain the authenticity of the original scene or subject. The photos I present and share are made using photographic methods —RealWorldPhotography. I do not use, in any shape or form, any presets nor generative AI that changes the original scene or subject; not for skies, not for fills and not for removal.
I am not anti-AI. Assistive AI is very helpful, for example in AF Tracking. But, I do not use it for image analysis such as Quick Actions. Lightroom AI Denoise is acceptable, as it does not change details. This is the bar I set for my use of AI in my personal work: AI cannot erode the integrity of the original scene or subject and it cannot introduce changes to the original file that did not originate with me. Presets and Quick Actions do, so they’re out. Some would find this avoidance of GenAI constraining, but it’s a constraint I’ve chosen to live within. Although Denoise uses a form of generative AI, it does not change the original scene.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 400mm (800mm efov) • ƒ8 @ 1/2500 • ISO 6400 • Lightroom
This is why I am wary of using generative AI for upscaling. According to Adobe, Gigapixel “preserves existing details”, which is encouraging. In Photoshop, where Topaz Bloom is available alongside Gigapixel, it states that Bloom “adds new, creative detail” — an absolute no-go zone for me. To back this up, the Canadian Association of Photographic Arts (CAPA), a world leader in research around the uses and exclusions of AI for their competitions, allows the use of Gigapixel AI because it does not fundamentally change the original, photographic nature of the scene or subject.
To me, the keys are authenticity and integrity. Both the nuthatch and the fox show very natural looking feathers and fur. In the past, Topaz upscaling has created artefacts, a ‘groomed’ appearance as noted above. This does not seem to be present in Gigapixel upscaling. As well, the details of landscapes are preserved, not changed. To me, this indicates Generative Upscaling is maintaining and enlarging what is there and not fabricating detail that isn’t.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 400mm (800mm efov) • ƒ11 @ 1/160 • ISO 800 • Lightroom
Availability / Internet Connectivity
Gigapixel is only available in Lightroom Cloud and only on Desktop or Web, not on iPad and not in Lightroom Classic (see above). Since the Lightroom Cloud images are stored in the Adobe Cloud, the service occurs on Adobe computers, not my laptop — no problem, most of the time.
While preparing this article, I made a number of Gigapixel upscales. But then, suddenly, the service was unavailable. This lasted all evening and into the next morning, until suddenly, it was working again. Having submitted the question to Adobe, they confirmed it was a problem at their end. When Gigapixel is used as a plugin, users do not have this problem. It’s important to remember that Generative Upscale is dependent on having an internet connection.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 400mm (800mm efov) • ƒ11 @ 1/800 • ISO 1600 • Topaz Photo AI + Lightroom
Highly skittish, the best I could do was crop the original to 1712x1712px. It’s fine for online sharing, but is only large enough for a 6″ print. With Generative Upscaling, I can now make 22×22″ prints at 300ppi.
Conclusion
So where does this leave us? If you have Lightroom already, it’s a win-win situation. If you have Topaz, then you’re good to go as well. If you are using DxO, you’ll find its DNGs processed through Generative Upscale in Lightroom are excellent.
As one who uses Lightroom for all my editing, beginning with cataloguing, but really taking advantage of its depth of precise and repeatable adjustments and superior masking, it’s a no-brainer. At times, I use Topaz and DxO for troublesome files, but only for denoising and sharpening, which represents about 5% of my edited files.
Lightroom users now have greater capacity to do more with their photographs. MFT users have the advantage of very high quality upscaling, when needed. OM System users can photograph using Live ND and GND, Focus Stacking, and Live Composite, yet never worry about whether our files will be large enough for very large, high-end prints. In others words, with our 20 MP professional-spec cameras, with all the innovative computational modes at our fingertips, we can easily generate high MP files when needed. Definitely the best of both worlds.

OM-1 w/ 8-25 at 25mm (50mm efov) • ƒ5.6 @ 1/320 • ISO 200 • Lightroom
Thanks for reading. Be sure to continue the discussion by adding your COMMENTS, questions or observations and feel free to SHARE this post with others.
NOTE: This blog is completely free and does not include commercial affiliate links. To help keep it free, consider buying me a coffee . . .
Are you better off with a phone camera?
Blasphemy in the photography world!
3874 words; 23 photographs; 20-minute read
Back in the fall of 2025, during a PhotoTalk presentation on iPhoneography, I was asked a question that caught me a little off guard and one I’ve been mulling over for some time now: With phone cameras so good, why buy a proper camera?
I’m a big supporter of using phone cameras and make hundreds if not thousands of phone photos each year. Most are of family, but I also use it when I’m kicking around without a ’proper’ camera, a DSLR or mirrorless.
You don’t want to hear this, and the camera industry sure doesn’t want it said, but I’m going to come right out and say it anyway:
In the hands of the majority of people who buy a mirrorless camera + kit lens, a phone will produce consistently ‘better’ photos of the majority of scenes and subjects they take pictures of.
Easier to snap. Easier to edit. Easier to share. That’s what people want. Yet, phones still produce files high enough in quality to make calendars, photo books, and framed prints as large as 11×14″, or, in. a squeeze, a16x20”, even canvases up to 20×30”. What’s not to like?
Phones have democratized photography. They are the every-person’s camera and they make amazing photos.
Phone cameras are better than good
We’ve all seen the ads that claim, ‘Shot with a iPhone’. A quick scroll through IPP Awards and Mobile Photography Awards websites confirms that phone cameras are more than capable for creating dynamic, engaging photographs. Stop reading for a moment and visit these links. You’ll be blown away at the creativity and quality of the photography.


But, what about IQ?
My first reaction when asked the question “why buy a proper camera”, concerned image quality. The image quality gap is still a perceived drawback between phone cameras and proper cameras. However, we need some perspective here.
First of all, technical quality is a false God. Photographs are meant to evoke emotion and tell stories. A quote I always keep top of mind is this:
There is nothing worse than a sharp photograph of a fuzzy concept. — Ansel Adams
This pairs well with another quote by the venerable master:
The single most important component of any camera is the twelve inches behind it. — Ansel Adams
I have no doubt that, if each of the phone photos presented here had been made with a DSLR or mirrorless camera, they would have higher image quality. But, if I had relied on a ‘proper’ camera to make them, many of them would have never been made.
Secondly, we are now in a situation where phones capture 24 MP and 48 MP photos and larger. Both have more than enough pixels for high quality printing—in books, magazines, calendars, even as framed prints or canvases for the wall. Remember, even 12 MP is larger enough for a 10×13” at 300ppi.

iPhone 8 Plus
Okay, so phone photos are not as technically sharp nor as rich-looking as those made with a DSLR or mirrorless cameras. But, we’re forgetting that phones now shoot in raw or Apple ProRAW. It’s not quite the same, but the files are far more editable.
Besides, how much quality are we looking for? 95% of all photos are only ever shared online or on-screen. Pixel-peeping is only done by pedantic photographers, not the general public. You print a photo, frame it and hang it on the wall and no one is going to scoff, “Oh, it’s only a phone photo!” Quite the opposite, in fact.
And Lenses?
My second thought, after IQ, was about the great range of lenses available for DSLRs and mirrorless cameras. The advantage of using a modern mirrorless camera is that it typically comes with a zoom lens, offering optical zoom quality at any focal length. As well, users can buy and add dozens of other lenses for specific uses. But they don’t!

iPhone 8 Plus
Fact: Fewer than half of all mirrorless camera buyers go on to buy an additional lens. For the kit-buying public, that number drops to 30%!! Why is that?!
My guess is there are millions of unused DSLR and mirrorless cameras sitting on shelves or in camera bags for one simple reason: phones take photos as good as most people ever need or want and they do so far more easily.

iPhone 8 Plus
Strangely enough, my advice when buying a new phone is to always upgrade to one with multiple cameras. My current iPhone has three, and goes from 14mm to 200mm — better than any kit lens out there! If you ’get into photography’ then you already have some lenses to grow into.
Where phone cameras excel
Family snapshots aside, phones are more than capable enough for creative and innovative ‘art’ photography as we saw from awards websites above. A phone camera is the camera that’s always with you. That, alone, makes it the “best camera”. And I’m talking about real photography, not just snapshots of the family.

iPhone 8 Plus
Sketching
Everywhere I go, I ‘see’ photographs. Out walking. Out driving. Shopping downtown. Much of what I see and capture are sketches, parts of photos, the 8s out of 10 photos but, just the same, I capture them, like an artist collects sketches. They teach me something about light and shadow, colour contrast and texture, patterns and designs.

Made with an iPhone 11 Pro; processed in Lightroom. this is one of my favourite COVID photos, made when I was out walking.
Sometimes I see great photos, complete photos, 9 or 10/10 photos. Since my phone camera is so good, I can be confident that the photo I make will be more than good enough for the wall.
When I was working with a 35mm sensor Nikon, I felt less obliged to take my ‘proper’ camera with me everywhere I went. My phone photos were great and I didn’t need to lug around a heavy system.

iPhone 11 Pro • Lightroom
This image makes a lovely 9×12” print. Framed and on the wall, no one ever questions its origin.
Travel Photography: Inconspicuous
You’ll notice that many of the phone photos shown here are from overseas. There’s a reason for that. When I say ‘inconspicuous’, I’m not talking about being deceptive. What I mean is, I can slide my phone out of my pocket, take a shot and slip it back in. Sure phones are a target for theft, but nothing screams ”tourist” louder than a camera strung around a neck or a camera bag clinging to one shoulder, or worse, put down on a bench while the carrier rests their weary neck or shoulders.
Note: When travelling, I now carry my ’proper’ camera, as well. No longer the heavy 35mm sensor Nikon, but a much more svelte Olympus OM-1 which hangs under my arm, on a shoulder strap—out of sight, out of mind. But I’m still more likely to use my phone camera for . . .
Street Photography: Ubiquitous
This is where a phone camera really works in my favour, especially when travelling. Unlike an ‘expensive’ camera, no one pays much attention to a phone. This makes me chuckle, as many phones are more expensive than many camera+lens kits.

iPhone 8 Plus • Lightroom
Because of this ubiquitousness, I find that when I ask someone if I may take a picture, in a market stall or on the street, they are much more obliging with a phone camera than with a ‘proper’ camera. They don’t know the difference between a $1000 Canon R100 and $10,000 Canon R1 — all they see is an intimidating, professional camera. With a phone camera, people are much more at ease. I don’t want stiff, deer-in-the-headlights expressions; in the short time I spend with someone, a phone camera is much more likely to capture a more natural expression.


Panos
What can be simpler than switching to Pano mode and slowly panning your phone to capture a grand view? And phones do it correctly, automatically. Shooting on the vertical ensures the highest possible resolution—all 3800 to 4000 pixels of an iPhone 17, plenty large enough for a 16” pano print or a 20” canvas.

iPhone 11 Pro
A ‘proper’ camera, must be turned vertically which, in itself, is awkward. Then you must shoot each individual frame, staying perfectly horizontal as you twist around, while being sure to overlap by 20 to 30%. Then the frames must be stitched in your editing app. Without a computer handy, you have no way of knowing how well it turned out. With a phone, it’s instantaneous; if it’s crap, you can do it again.

iPhone 11 Pro — With people moving, it took three attempts to get it just right.
Introducing Movement
I still remember the day my tech-savvy daughter showed me how to get slow shutter speed effects using ‘Live Photos’ on my iPhone. Fantastic! At the time, the only way I could achieve beautiful flowing water was with my ‘proper’ camera. I carried around neutral density filters for the lens and a tripod to hold everything still.
Live Mode became a game-changer! I could now travel sans ND filters and tripod and still capture great motion photos. This is innovation!

iPhone 11 Pro; Live Mode (left) converted to Long Exposure (right)

Aside: That was then, this is now. My current camera, an OM-1 has Live ND and incredible stabilization. I no longer use my phone for movement photos as I can capture even better motion photos, still without carrying ND filters or a tripod, but more on that later.
Video
I’m a still photographer, so I don’t shoot a lot of video. If can’t say what I want to say in a single image, then a two or three minute video isn’t going to change that. However, when I do shoot video, it’s with my phone. Why? Because it’s convenient. And it’s darn good!
I’m not out to make an Oscar-winning shorts. I want to capture what it’s like to be in a moment that has visuals and audio—something I can’t capture with stills. Phone’s are so intuitive when it comes to video. Here’s an example:
The Year 7 Maasai students wind up their morning session of classes by singing and dancing a traditional Maasai song with their teacher leading.
Video is easier with most phones than it is with a proper camera. Stabilization is excellent with output to 4K—more than you’ll ever need. Even pros are using iPhones for high-end video.
Phone cameras are even better in the hands of a photographer
And here’s the rub. It’s not the camera that creates a photograph, it’s the photographer, every time. The photographer ‘sees’ the potential, then pieces together the design, composition, aesthetic elements and timing to capture that magical moment. But, with phones removing the tech of aperture, shutter speed and ISO, users are free to concentrate on what’s in front of them.
What phone companies have done better than the Holy Trinity of camera manufacturers (Sony-Nikon-Canon or SoNikCan), is they have innovated. Their user-centred innovations have reduced the friction between user experience and amazing photos. That’s what people want! Not bigger and more techie, but simpler with great results.
Most camera manufacturers have relied too much on the “bigger is better” paradigm and have left behind the average person who does not want to be saddled with a larger heavier camera around their neck, just because it makes marginally better photos with more megapixels. How big is big enough? How good is good enough? The phone companies have answered both, very successfully.
A lack of innovation
But — a phone can’t be all things to all people. There are niche areas that phones struggle with. But let me point out that, except for a few bodies from OM System, these are the same niche types of photography that almost every other DSLR and mirrorless cameras struggles with — still!
It’s not the camera, per se, but rather the lack of innovation by camera manufacturers. Yes, they have added megapixels. Yes they have added video, but so have phones. In fact, phones are being used to make movies—and not just low-budget documentaries and shorts, but full-length feature films as well.
True innovation in a ’proper’ camera
So here is where I make a departure. If you are going to buy a proper camera, then make sure it does more than your phone camera. Not more megapixels. That doesn’t matter. What you should look for is innovation to make great photography more seamless. One camera manufacturer stands out for their consistently innovative solutions, for the past twenty years. They have solved problems that SoNikCan have missed the boat on and are only now catching up with, albeit slowly and incompletely.
The problem is, we live in a culture that has successfully brainwashed us into believing that size matters. Bigger cameras and bigger lenses with more megapixels must be ‘better’ than smaller cameras with fewer megapixels. That’s the mob mentality and they might just take it to the grave, like the medium and large format manufacturers of 100 years ago, when the miniature “Leica” was introduced. Phone cameras have understood the paradigm shift. So has Olympus / OM System.

Made with a 1st generation iPad Air
I am not suggesting that everyone ditch their ‘proper’ camera for a phone. No. What I’m advocating for is innovation. The kind of innovation that Olympus / OM System has been showing for over 20 years. Rather than simply following the leader and piling on the megapixels, they have taken a high-end, stacked BSI CMOS sensor and built a professional system around it, with amazingly innovative features that add to the excitement of photography. For example . . .
Star Trails
Introduced way back in 2012 (!!) Live Composite allows users to set the camera on a tripod and capture star trails, just like we did back in the film days. No external compositing needed, so you don’t need to assemble hundreds of files on a computer. It’s all done in-camera—as you watch—i.e. it is truly live. And the results are extraordinary. For those who really get into it, they can still do external composites, but now, star trails are in the hands of anyone with an OM camera and a tripod. And this has been the case for the last 14 years.

OM-1 w/ Panasonic-Leica 9mm/1.7 (18mm efov) • ƒ2 @ 40x60sec exposures using Live Compsite • ISO 400 • Lightroom
Hocus Focus
When automated, handheld, in-camera Focus Stacking and Bracketing was introduced by Olympus in 2015, it was an immediate hit with macro photographers and has since been adopted by landscape photographers. You enter the number of photos you want and the differential and the camera will make the exposures and composite them in-camera. If you choose, it will render a final JPEG along with each of the raw images used to make the composite; that way, you can do you own composites afterwards, if you choose. High end Canon and one Sony model will do this, but they are limited to 10 frames. That’s it! OM will combine up to 15 frames in-camera or shoot up to 999 frames bracketed. No other camera can do this.

OM-1 w/M.Zuiko 60mm/2.8 Macro (120mm efov) • ƒ4 @ 1/125 • ISO 800 • 10-image Focus Stack • Lightroom
Before the beginning of time
Olympus introduced Pro Capture in 2016. For the last 10 years, bird photographers have used it to capture truly unique photographs of birds and insects taking off and landing. But it is also used for studio work, photos of water splashes, balloons bursting, you name it—any situation where instant timing is critical.
Hold the shutter release halfway down and the camera begins continuously spooling images to the buffer. Release the shutter and the last second or two of images are saved and some after release, as well, depending on the parameters set by the photographer.
The advantage of OM System, is that the OM-1ii, for example, can capture raw files up to 50 frames per second with autofocus and autoexposure for each of those 50 frames. No other system comes close.

OM-1 w/M.Zuiko 100-400mm/5-6.3 at 400mm (800mm efov) • ƒ8 @ 1/2500 • ISO 3200 • Topaz + Lightroom
More than meets the eye
Pixel-shift technology has been recently introduced in some high end mirrorless cameras, but Olympus / OM System has had it since 2016, called High Res. Users can choose between 50 MP handheld high res (HHHR) and 80 MP Tripod HR. While other manufacturers have Tripod-based high res, only OM cameras have a handheld mode without the limitations imposed by other manufacturers.

OM-1 w/M.Zuiko 12-100mm/4 PRO at 12mm (24mm efov) • ƒ8 @ 1/250 • ISO 800 • 50 MP HHHR • Lightroom
Love in Slow Motion
As I wrote above, one feature of phones that clearly outshines every DSLR or mirrorless camera except OM, is the ease of capturing movement such as waves, rivers and waterfalls. No tripod. No ND filters.

iPhone 11 Pro
Since 2019, Olympus / OM System cameras have had Live ND mode. Choose from ND 2 up to ND 128 and handheld—yes, without a tripod—you are capturing moving water. It is that easy and very effective! No gimmick here.

OM-1 w/12-100 at 12mm (24mm efov) • ƒ9 @ ½ sec. • ISO 800 • Lightroom
Note the shutter speed. Handheld.
A Sky Full of Stars
Last, but not least, since 2020, OM cameras have had Starry Sky AF. Perhaps the most difficult thing in photography to focus on are stars. With modern electronic lenses, the infinity setting does not work. Cranking out a lens to maximum focus distance does not work. You need to switch to a magnified view. With OM, just use Starry Sky AF. Works every time.

OM-1 w/ P-L 9mm/1.7 (18mm efov) • ƒ2 @ 15 seconds • ISO 3200 • Lightroom
It’s not like any of these innovations can’t be done in other ways with other cameras. What Olympus did (and OM System continues to do) is to reduce the friction to make them accessible with a shallower learning curve and easier tech than the alternatives.
The one innovation I haven’t mentioned so far, and one that allows many of these other innovation is IBIS—In-Body Image Stabilization. Olympus pioneered it back in 2003. Konica Minolta did as well, then sold their camera division to Sony who adopted IBIS in 2006, But Canon and Nikon didn’t have it until 2016. OM System is still recognized as the industry leader with 8.5 stops of stabilization. And that makes a HUGE difference, especially for landscape photography and telephoto photography of wildlife and birds.

OM-1 w/12-100 mm at 23mm (46mm efov) • ƒ5.6 @ 1sec. • ISO 3200 • DxO and Lightroom
Note the shutter speed. This photo was made without a tripod and without any other support other than good handholding technique and IBIS.
So where does this leave us?
I’ve been looking over my photos from the last 20 years and note that since I switched from 35mm sensor Nikon to using an OM-1 system three years ago, I have stopped using my iPhone for anything beyond sketching. Why? Being half the weight of my Nikon system, my OM-1 is far more portable. My ‘walk about’ lens, a 12-100mm/4 (24-200mm/4 efov) is superior to anything from Nikon. And, with modes like Live ND and Focus Stacking built in, I don’t need to lug around a tripod. Except for astrophotography and eclipses, I’ve stopped using a tripod altogether.
Depth-of-Field
Something we don’t talk enough about with OM is the added advantage of depth-of-field. At ƒ8, I get the same DoF as ƒ16 on a 35mm sensor system. That’s two extra stops of light (2 EV) which allows a shutter speed four times faster. This, combined with IBIS, means I can handhold just about anything.
Alternatively, I shoot at ƒ4 and use Focus Stacking.
Size and Weight
The other advantage I’ve found is with my telephoto zoom. I use a 100-400/5-6.3, equivalent to a 200-800mm/5-6.3 35mm sensor lens. It is half the weight of the Canon 200-800, which is also a slower ƒ6.3-9 lens. No thanks. I’m much happier handholding my 100-400 all day.
The importance of this cannot be overstated, especially with an aging population and a generation who are far more willing to hop on a plane to travel.
Currently, I carry every focal length from 16mm to 800mm (in 35mm sensor terms), including a 60mm/2.8 macro lens, all in a sling bag that weighs in at less than 5kg. It is my ‘personal item’ in airline parlance, not my carry on and not my checked luggage. That’s significant.

OM-1 w/100-400 at 227mm (554mm efov) • 8 @ 1/15 • ISO 6400 • Lightroom
And, to dispell yet another small sensor myth, note the ISO of 6400 –– colours and detail at high ISO.
The elephant in the room . . .
Okay, so my OM-1 captures 20 MP images, not 46 MP or 61 MP. 20 MP. Am I bothered? Not in the least (and I used to shoot 6×7 and 4×5!) It’s called perspective. At 3888×5140 pixels, my files are large enough for anything up to 13×19” in size, without breaking a sweat. And 16x20s will compete with any 16x20s on the wall anywhere. If I need larger, then Topaz Gigapixel (now built into Adobe Lightroom!) is at my fingertips. And the details are just as sharp, if not sharper.
One can argue that anything larger than 20 MP is ‘dinosauric’. Bigger is better sure didn’t work for them! Actually that’s a good analogy, as dinosaurs are still with us, but in a smaller version. We call them birds. But that’s a whole other line of thinking.
So, for me, I now have the best of both worlds. My phone for grab shots, street photography, and for sketching. And my ’proper’ camera, an innovative, thoughtful system, to cover the niche areas of photography that demand specialized techniques and lenses. If this isn’t your thing, then use your phone and really work on the ”seeing’ and story-telling. That’s photography.

iPhone 8 Plus • Lightroom
Thanks for reading. Be sure to continue the discussion by adding your COMMENTS, questions or observations and feel free to SHARE this post with others.
NOTE: This blog is completely free and does not use commercial affiliate links. To help keep it free, consider buying me a coffee . . .
The last throes of winter, in photographs
Trying to capture a few more winter photographs before Fool’s Spring is upon us
912 words; 13 photographs; 5-minute read
For the past week, we’ve been up in a cabin near Algonquin Provincial Park, trying to squeeze out a few more days of real winter. Sounds idyllic, doesn’t it? And it was, while it lasted.
Note: Click or tap on each image to see a larger version.

OM-1 w/M.Zuiko 12-100mm at 100mm • ƒ5.6 @ 1/800 • ISO 200 • 2-image Pano • HHHR • Lightroom
The light just before sunset was a magical colour. We passed this wetland opening along the Hwy 60 corridor. The subtle sweep of undulations in the snow lit by the soft evening glow captivated me.
Our first few days were glorious. On the first morning, I was up at 4am to capture what I could of the Total Lunar Eclipse. For the next few days, bright sunshine with above-zero temperatures brought spring tantalizingly close. But then the rains came, just in time for us to enjoy the last few games of the Brier.

OM-1 w/12-100 at 14mm • ƒ13 @ ¼ sec • ISO 200 • Live ND 16 • Lightroom
When presenting natural scenes in black-and-white, I usually add a slight warm tone to emulate the warm Agfa Brovira papers of my darkroom days. To better convey the cold, this time I used a cool selenium tone.
As we drove home today, the temperature hit 18°C, and much of the snow south of Hwy 9 has melted. But winter won’t have lost its grip quite yet, as later this week we’ll receive another Arctic blast with snow and freezing rain.

OM-1 w/12-100 at 24mm • ƒ5.6 @ 1/500 • ISO 200 • HHHR • Lightroom
The ice was really that blue? Yes, it was, especially when photographed in the shade of the cliff. The Colour Temperature of this image is 6500°K, a full 1000°K warmer than normal!
At its peak, winter has a unique beauty to it, and this year has been one of the best in living memory. On a sunny day, stark blue shadows reach across vast expanses of white. As we head towards spring, there is just enough melting to add flow to rivers that have shed their icy winter grip.

OM-1 w/12-100 at 12mm • ƒ7.1 @ ½ sec • ISO 200 • Live ND 16 • Lightroom w/ warm tone.

OM-1 w/ 12-100 @ 61mm • ƒ5.6 @ ⅛ sec ª ISO 200 • Live ND 16 • Lightroom w/ cool, selenium tone
With the sun still months away from reaching its zenith, shadows remain long for most of the day. I could wax on about the light, the shapes, the shadows and the tones, but photographs speak much more clearly than words.

OM-1 w/ 12-100 at 12mm • ƒ6 @ 1/4000 • ISO 800 • HHHR • Lightroom
These are what I would call provisional photographs. After editing, I like to sit with them for a week or two, then have another look. With fresh eyes, I invariably see things I missed the first time and end up nudging and tweaking things like contrast, white balance, shadows, and highlights until the finished work feels right.

OM-1 w/M.Zuiko 100-400mm at 218mm • ƒ8 @ 1/800 • ISO 3200 • Lightroom

OM-1 w/100-400 at 218mm • ƒ8 @ 1/400 • ISO 3200 • Lightroom
This idea of the photograph ‘feeling right’ is important. Technique and technical wizardry can only go so far before ‘feeling’ takes over.

OM-1 w/12-100 at 35mm • ƒ5.6 @ 1/2000 • ISO 200 • HHHR • Lightroom
Photographs are emotional as much as they are physical. A photograph ‘feels’ in balance or it doesn’t. The differences is impossible to describe. Sometimes it’s a lighting issue between foreground and background or left and right. Other times, it’s exposure, or highlights or shadows.

OM-1 w/12-100 at 38mm • ƒ8 @ 1/1600 • ISO 800 • HHHR • Lightroom w/ warm tone
I was drawn to the design of this scene with its angles and repetition in the many bare branches, all held together by the snow and the river.
Does the photograph look ‘right’? Is it authentic to the original subject or scene? This last question is particularly important to me. I refuse to use presets and I refuse to use any kind of generative AI that changes the nature of the scene or subject. Changes like sky swapping, generative fill, and wholesale blue hour or golden hour alterations are not what I do.

OM-1 w/12-100 at 100mm • ƒ8 @ 1/640 • ISO 200 • Lightroom

OM-1 w/12-100 at 47mm • ƒ8 @ 1/640 • ISO 200 • HHHR • Lightroom

OM-1 w/12-100 at 80mm • ƒ8 @ 1/640 • ISO 200 • Lightroom
What you see is what I saw at the moment of capture and each photo is made using photographic methods, not AI. It’s an important distinction to make. I do not use sky swapping, nor presets, and certainly not Generative AI fill or remove. This is Real World Photography. #Authentic.Original.Photos. And, it’s something you’ll be hearing more about over the coming months.
Thanks for reading. Be sure to continue the discussion by adding your COMMENTS, questions or observations and feel free to SHARE this post with others.
NOTE: This blog is completely free and does not include commercial affiliate links. To help keep it free, consider buying me a coffee . . .
Total Lunar Eclipse: 3 March 2026
What makes the Moon so alluring? And, why is a lunar eclipse even more so? I’m not sure, but it was alluring enough to get me up at 4am on a very cold March morning!
1353 words; 11 photographs; 7-minute read
It just so happened that the eclipse would occur during our first night/morning away on a winter retreat—a last fling with what has been one of the best (read ‘snowiest and coldest’) winters in recent memory.
Yes, I like winter. We like winter. Especially when it’s a good winter lie this year with lots of snow and temperatures to keep the snow. To us, even an average winter is preferred to the heat and humidity of summer. I know, Crazy Canucks, though most Canadians do not seem to share our views on winter.
But this is about the eclipse. It’s not uncommon to have clear skies in southern Ontario, but it can also be iffy. This time should be different, as with a cold front comes clear skies. I don’t know how many times in the past, eclipses have been a wash out due to cloud. Not last year’s, and hopefully, not this year, either.
I described my first successful lunar eclipse photo session from a year ago with this result:

Thinking ahead
Planning began in late February, when I first heard the eclipse would happen. I generally use The Photographers Ephemeris for celestial events. I find it intuitive and faster to use than PhotoPills, which is very popular amongst night sky and astrophotographers.


On Site
I began by making some landscape images that could be used for a composite, the eclipse conditions would allow. So, before heading to bed on the night of 2 March, I went down to the frozen lake and made a few Tripod HR images of the view across the lake at night, lit only by the moon. I could drop in any landscape from anywhere, but I prefer to maintain some authenticity to my experience, and to the actual scene in front of me.
It was a beautifully clear night with a good number of stars visible, though not right to the horizon. Could it be the glow of Huntsville to the west or simply some haze, moisture in the atmosphere leftover from a day of sunshine on the mounds of snow around here? Though there wasn’t a lot of melting, sublimation is always happening, especially on sunny days.
I would have preferred a feature in the foreground, a stand of those classic Ontario trees, white pines, would have been perfect, but without driving somewhere, the area around us didn’t work out. Again, the ideal would be to position them and still have lots of sky, but they were simply too dense for that to work. Oh well.
The Eclipse
The earliest phase of the eclipse began at 3:46am. From past experience, I knew there was virtually no change in the moon until a bit later, so i set me alarm for 4am. After putting on layer after layer of base, middle and outer layers—it was only –17°C, but I would be standing around—I was out on site for my first photo at 4:23am. Just a hint of shadow was showing.

Earth’s Penumbra begins its journey across the Moon
OM-1 w/100-400mm at 400mm • ƒ8 @ 1/640 • ISO 400 • Lightroom
The previous night, I had set up the camera for spot metering. This is critical for correct exposure of what is a distant reflective disk surrounded by the black of night. Initially, I left ‘Night Vision’ off until the moon grew very dark. Night Vision increases the gain on the electronic viewfinder (EVF) to see more clearly in dark situations.
From the first exposure, I set a schedule of photos, timing them relatively evenly throughout the event.
The night/morning was still and very quiet. No hoots, nor howls, not even any dogs barking; only the odd vehicle on Highway 60, a hundred metres behind me. It was a clear sky above, though I noticed some haze towards the horizon.
I had a great view across the frozen lake, once I found a gap in the trees, with a path clear of branches right down to the horizon.
Unfortunately, with each successive photo, with the moon sinking lower and lower, the effects of the haze increased. At the same time, the brightness of the moon dipped, forcing higher and higher ISOs. The last few photos were made at ISO 12,800, ƒ8 and shutter speeds as low at ½ second to 2 seconds. While a faster lens would be nice, like the big white, with the TC 1.25x in place, it would only be a 1 EV gain in aperture (ƒ5.6) which will either reduce the ISO to 6400 OR increase shutter speed to ¼ sec. to 1 second. Is a one-stop gain worth $10,000?








As time progressed, of course, the sky became lighter with the approach of sunrise. This was a known limiting factor as TPE clearly showed sunrise at 6:51am. However, before that came Nautical Twilight at 5:47am and Civil Twilight at 6:21am. Sadly, between the brightening sky and the atmospheric haze, ‘my Moon’ disappeared from view shortly after the last photo, made at 6:03am, just two minutes before Totality. Oh well; time to come in out of the cold.
Screen Time
Back in our cabin, I worked on the images, but not right away. While the camera slowly warmed under a cloth bag, we put on the coffee and began warming a nice Chelsea bun.
A half hour later, images were imported into Lightroom and the fun began. Following denoising and sharpening, each image was tweaked for consistency in colour (5100°K) and exposure. I increased Contrast and Whites; slightly reduced the Highlights; and provided a boost in local contrast by increasing Clarity.
Cropping was the most time consuming. With the Moon moving across the sky, I had to reposition the camera-lens set-up on the tripod each time. This meant inconsistency in positioning in the frame. In Lightroom, I changed the Crop Overlay from Thirds to Fifths, then used the 1:1 crop tool to crop right to the edge of the Moon in each frame. Once they were consistent from frame to frame, I expanded the cropped area of each. It would be nice to have an auto-crop, but, so be it.
Compositing
After exporting full-size JPEGs, I used Affinity Photo to assemble the composite. Matching the sky of the landscape and the sky behind the each successive Moon required some bit of trial and error combined with learning new techniques with Affinity, an app I rarely use for photography, other than for compositing.
Each Moon photo was placed and resized to look natural in the sky (okay, maybe a bit large 🙂 ). I dropped the background out then used a combination of erasing and reducing transparency to blend each moon into the existing sky.

From here, I will live with the image for a few days before creating a final work. I find it helpful to put away the work for a while then reflect on it after a few days or a week. I know this is counter to the ‘modern’ notion of expediency and immediacy, ‘getting it out there’, but I honestly don’t care. To me, this kind of work goes beyond the timelines demanded of social media. I’m in it for the long game.
Thanks for reading. Be sure to continue the discussion by adding your COMMENTS, questions or observations and feel free to SHARE this post with others.
NOTE: This blog is completely free and does not include commercial affiliate links. To help keep it free, consider buying me a coffee . . .
Culling, Cold and Birds-in-Flight
Winter bird photography on the shores of Lake Ontario
13 photographs; 2127 words; 11 minute read
How can these three impossibly disparate concepts synthesize themselves into the perfect storm? Take a hundred or so waterfowl, concentrate them into a small area, then photograph them as they zoom overhead. But that’s just the beginning . . .
Artificial Intelligence has been demonized in photography, and for good reason. Not only is it eliminating jobs, it has changed the whole perception of photography to the point where truly compelling images, ones that seems unlikely or too good to be true, are instantly labelled as AI. It’s one of the reasons I am advocating for #RealWorldPhotography, but that’s a different post for a different day.

Olympus OM-1i w/M. Zuiko ED 100-400mm IS i at 400mm • ƒ8 @ 1/3200 • ISO 1600 • +1 EV • Lightroom
The mallards were often flying in pairs; capturing two in the same plane of focus took many attempts.
In the last 25 years, photography has undergone two fundamental and very rapid upheavals—digital capture and AI. Unprecedented doesn’t begin to describe them. To encounter similar disrupters, we need to go back 100 years to the advent of the 35mm camera in 1925, and the various iterations of colour film through the 1930s, both of which took decades to be ‘normalized’. From an historical perspective digital and AI have been instantaneous. Fnding the sweet spot in using AI to assist rather than generate is an important step.
Cold
Digital photography allows photographers to make, quite literally, hundreds to thousands of images in a hour. This is what happened earlier this week when I met up with Tom Stirr of SmallSensorPhotography.com for some bird-in-flight photography. The brutal cold of the last few weeks created unique ice conditions along the shore of Lake Ontario, concentrating hundreds of waterfowl in a small area. Tom first noted this phenomenon 5 or 6 years ago and emailed me earlier in the month when the conditions appeared again.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 400mm • ƒ8 @ 1/3200 • ISO 1600 • +1 EV • Lightroom
The morning was another chilly one, but by 10:30am when we met, the temperature had risen to –9°C. We spent our time sitting on stools in the ice and snow, allowing the birds to come to us, so staying warm was important. I pretty much followed the recommendation in my post Gearing up for Winter Photography. Double gloving was essential for keeping my hands warm, yet still being able to access all camera settings.
Diamonds in the Rough
BIF photography is not my forté, nor is it a style of wildlife photography I normally pursue, so this would be a challenge. I must admit to not looking forward to wading through several hundred images at a time, of mostly the same subject, each showing small, iterative differences in focus, head position, wing beats, feet, etc. to find those diamonds in the rough.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 400mm • ƒ8 @ 1/3200 • ISO 1600 • +1 EV • Lightroom
In almost two hours, I made 906 images, for me a record. My settings were AF-C and Bird Tracking with Sequential Shooting at SH2, 25fps. The OM-1 is so fast, the camera would AF and AE for each image in a burst. With an ISO of 1600 and an aperture of ƒ8 (mostly), my shutter speeds were in the 1/1250 to 1/8000 range. I also set my Exposure Compensation to +1 EV to partially compensate for the very bright snowy background.
Birds-in-Flight (BIF)
At one point, when someone showed up to feed the birds, we had dozens of mallards and Canada geese flying straight toward us. ‘Like shooting fish in a barrel’, as Tom described it. To me, it was reminiscent of Battle of Britain footage, except these birds weren’t dropping any ‘bombs’ (thank goodness!). Later on, a dog walker arrived which scared the birds into flight away from us. This was fortuitous—as Tom correctly predicted, 10 to 15 minutes later, the birds flew back directly toward us to the near shore, individually, in pairs and small groups, which made for a great many photo ops.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 123mm • ƒ8 @ 1/4000 • ISO 1600 • +1 EV • Lightroom
In comparison to my ’meagre’ 906 images, Tom made 5629. He was using the M.Zuiko 150-600mm, which extended his range over my 100-400, and he dedicated a good portion of his shooting to specifically using 600mm (1200mm efov) for his blog post Ducks in Flight at 1200mm efov. Tom also photographed using ProCapture Low (SH2) for virtually all of his photography, which explains the greater number of files. ProCapture is something I have yet to master. While I have had success with it each time I’ve used it, I do not relish the culling, which brings me to . . .
Culling

How do you possibly wade through hundreds or thousands of images in a reasonable amount of time? For me, that’s where Assistive AI comes in—and a good time to try Adobe’s Assisted Culling (AC) once again. It’s available on Lightroom Desktop and Classic, though not the iPad version, and surprisingly, not in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR). AC is an ‘Early Access’ feature, meaning it is still in development. It has been trained, through machine learning, to ‘look for’ sharp subjects, sharp eyes, and eyes open—all helpful in wildlife photography, but . . .
Given the needs of the industry, AC was initially developed for portrait photography. Interestingly, portraits, at least corporate head shots, are a type of commercial photography that AI is rapidly replacing. However, high end fashion portraiture and haute couture photography is still very much in vogue.
But I’m photographing a different kind of bird—the wild kind, the unpredictable kind, the #RealWorldPhotography kind. How well would AC handle the wild side?
I set the parameters of Subject Focus to 70% and Eye Focus to 100% as it is most critical for the eye to be sharp. After a few minutes, my 906 images were narrowed down to 242 ‘Selects’, most of which matched the parameters set, though it was far from perfect. I still had to cull based on body, head, and wing position, as that was too much to ask of AC at this stage.
However, in scrolling through the 664 that were ‘Rejects’, there were 6 that I felt should have been ‘Selects’. That’s 1%, so it is efficient, though I did not scrutinize every photo. I ignored photos that may have met the criteria of AC but, due to head, wings or body position, I didn’t pursue. A few of the ‘good’ Rejects I passed on to Adobe through their ‘Feedback’ portal within the panel.
I also tried different parameters and came up with, predictably, different results. Raising the Subject Focus to 90% reduced the number of Selects to 74. However, it also greatly increased the number of perfectly fine Rejects to 26. I’m not sure what all this means other than until Assisted Culling is refined, I will need to keep an eye on the Rejects for any that might actually be perfectly fine.

So is Assisted Culling helpful? Yes, but be warned. Check your Rejects, especially if your parameters are too weak. I suggest starting from tighter parameters and working from there. After all, you only need a few of “best”. For me, it turned out that of the 906 images, I rated 51 at 3* or higher with 35 being in the 4* category. No 5* as of yet, but that usually comes after walking away from them for a few days before reviewing them again.
The question now becomes, what do I do with the 855 out-takes? Given that I have at least one decent photograph of each of the different species present—mallard drake, mallard hen, ring-billed gull, and Canada goose—I will delete the 855. No use taking up Adobe Cloud space for sub-optimal photos!

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 100mm • ƒ8 @ 1/3200 • ISO 1600 • +1 EV • Lightroom
Often called sky rats, for good reason, gulls are an elegant bird in flight. In this case, I caught him/her looking at me—always a bonus when photographing wildlife.



Sequence of gulls.
OM-1 w/100-400mm at 307mm • ƒ8 @ 1/5000 • ISO 1600 • +1 EV • Lightroom
Click on a gallery image to scroll through.
Processing the Best
Now, how to efficiently process these images? My work began with Detail. If an image wasn’t sharp, the eyes in particular, there was no use in spending time editing. I tend to be very conservative in my sharpening, but for these, I found a little more aggressive sharpening helpful. This included:
- increasing Clarity (under Effects) to 20; then
- Denoise at 65;
- Sharpening 100;
- Radius 1.5;
- Detail 60; and
- Masking 30.
Under Optics, I also added Remove Chromatic Aberration. For some images, particularly those that required more cropping, I increased Denoise to 75. With each tweak, I inspected the results at 200% and 100%.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 285mm • ƒ8 @ 1/2500 • ISO 1600 • +1 EV • Lightroom
These setting were applied to the whole image. As i live with the images, I may find that I switch things around to apply less aggressive sharpening to the whole image and more aggressive sharpening to the subject, using a mask. For now, they seem fine. Once the Detail settings were nailed down, I created my own profile called ‘BIF-Feb2026’. Only once did I try an image in DxO PureRAW and found I was getting better results in Lr, so I stayed with that.
For Lighting (exposure), I began with ‘Auto’, but made a great many changes from there. Lightroom often underexposed images due to the bright sky and snow. It also mis-read the Whites, often lowering them into negative territory when, after manual adjustment, I found +35 to +50 to be the norm. I prefer snow to be white, but I also toggled on highlight clipping to avoid losing detail and made good use of the Highlights adjustment, which was often in the -50 to -90 range.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 276mm • ƒ8 @ 1/5000 • ISO 1600 • +1 EV • Lightroom
I found Lr often reduced the Black adjustment to -50 which was far too aggressive. Most of the time, Blacks were around 0 with Shadows at +50 to +80 to brighten up the heads of, especially, male mallards. I rarely changed contrast from +7 and had no need to alter white balance—the colours seemed bang on.
Workflow
I worked on each series of similar images at a time. Once the Light settings were nailed down for the first image in a series, including cropping when needed, I made use of ‘Copy Edit Settings’ and applied them to the others in the same series. After all, why re-invent the wheel? There were tweaks after that, but for the most part Copy Edit Settings was a very helpful tool. I would select ‘Modified’, then de-select Effects, Detail and Optics as they had already been set using the Preset I had created..


OM-1 w/100-400mm @ 400mm • ƒ8 @ 1/5000 • ISO 1600 • +1 EV • Lightroom
With Colour, I found the veiled sunlight didn’t change much through the morning, creating fairly consistent white balance from photo to photo—all around 5750°K, give or take. In fact, I really didn’t need to alter the Colour except to standardize it for all photos to 5500°K and +6 Tint, which cooled them slightly; it is winter, after all. Again, I copied and pasted just the colour settings to the entire group of photos.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 244mm • ƒ8 @ 1/5000 • ISO 1600 • +1 EV • Lightroom
My last additional tweak, which was only slightly laborious, but made simpler with AI masking, was to warm each bird slightly (Temp +5) and cool the background slightly (–10 Temp). To me, this brought out the colours of the birds while maintaining the impression of it being a cold wintery day., which it was! It’s nit-picking, but to me worth it to create a consistent look across the set of images.

OM-1 w/100-400mm at 276mm • ƒ8 @ 1/2000 • ISO 800 • +1 EV • Lightroom
So, that’s a wrap. A successful morning of photography—thanks Tom—and great learning and practice with BIF, culling and processing.
Thanks for reading. Be sure to continue the discussion by adding your COMMENTS, questions or observations and feel free to SHARE with others.
NOTE: This blog is completely free and does not include commercial affiliate links. To help keep it free, consider buying me a coffee . . .
